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Portrait editing techniques

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I've seen a lot of portrait editing techniques and how-to's in various magazines and websites all with varying degrees of difficulty, software required and success.

So far my favourite is probably the simplest if you are looking for a sharp, HDR esque photo. You can also paint a mask on it to blend it a little more for a 'Dragan' style portrait. The tutorial for this can be found below and requires lightroom and photoshop (ideally cs5 or 6). This particular tutorial video is by ThatNikonGuy and you can check his other stuff out here.


Here are my own examples from a portrait shoot earlier in the year (click for full view);



 These are at the extremes of the scale just to show what can be pulled out of an image. Note it will still cause some haloing but this can be either reduced with masking (or just tone down the luminosity layer, not every photo needs to look like this!).

Below I tried it with some posers from Fota Wildlife Park. The original images can probably be found in previous posts. I just wanted to see how non studio based shots would work with it.


Again these are both at extremes but they do work. They will start to show up messy backgrounds if you have them though (like in these shots). If I were to use this technique more I'd probably just highlight small parts of the subject with the technique as the full image definitely doesn't need it unless filling the frame or you have a black background.



Overall it genuinely does take the 3-4 of the video length to learn so it is super quick. You have a lot of room editing in both packages and won't require any specific plugins for either program (camera raw for CS5/6 but this is free from adobes site if not already installed).

I'd personally use this technique in the future although sparingly, likely in low key lit portraits of old folk and similar (not really breaking any new grounds in terms of photography art but sometimes a quality image which is still unique in consumer eyes is always a bonus).

Again to add some advice to using this. You still need to take the portrait well, light it properly as normal. This will not save rubbish photos for you (nor will hdring anything) and will not work in every situation. It is quite demanding on a low to moderate specced pc so some patience is needed. I'd also tone it down loads depending on the lighting and general shapes created on the subject. 

Also while tonnes of contrast is great in some situations (I love high contrast shots) look at your edited image, put it to one side, do something else and after come back to it, you may want to tone it down a little. Subtle tones and detail can be lost if the contrast is too high, voiding this technique's selling  point.




Fota Wildlife Park: Black and White

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These were taken on Tuesday 30th Oct at Fota Wildlife Park. I've been there plenty times before as it's a great day out for all and there are some awesome animals walking in and around the park!

It was extremely cold that day so a lot of the animals were keeping warm indoors however I managed to take a few for a series of Black and White shots. Click for larger view!

D7000 - Tamron 70-300mm lens


Above: Cheetah on the prowl
Below: Emus are probably one of my favourite large birds. They have a great call which is a really bassy style click (kind of like a super slow mo dubstep version of roadrunner's sound). They love to pose as well!


Below: Ostriches are also great birds, pretty elegant when striding along. These, along with the Emus in the park tend to walk nearest the fence so you can get nice and close to them to take some detailed shots.



 Above: I probably have the species wrong here (tip! Do your research while at the park, plenty of information stands and people around to help!) but I think this is a Grey Crested/cheeked Mangabey?. Shooting monkeys or apes can be tricky depending on the time of day. You need a lot of patience and a steady hand. If they are moving try to predict their next climbing location and set up for that using the posts/ trees that are near.


Above: Close up of a European Buffalo horn. These guys are huge. No matter how many times I've been these have always been side on to where you walk so thought I'd try shooting different key parts of the animal. This provided the best mix of tones and textures! 

Here are a few tips when shooting wildlife, these can be used in a park like this (I recommend if you live in or near Cork to go by the way!) or out in the wild.

  • Be patient - animals are not always active, use the time to plan a shot for when they do move. Also look at the shapes of the animals if they are static. For example, the buffalo was just lying down so I just shot a part of it which I may not have been able to if the animal was moving. Another tip is to find out when feeding times are or walk along with one of the park rangers. Wildlife park animals may move/wake up when they hear the walkie talkie going as there may be a possibility of food!
  • Prepare your shots - while animals are unpredictable they will still follow a certain path most of the times. Grazing animals will tend to follow the rest of the herd so wait and see where the leader of the herd goes and set up there. While a faster lens may help most the time get that quick shot it isn't impossible with a slower or cheaper lens. I use a very cheap/old 70-300 (probably under £100 now) and am still able to get some good shots in relatively overcast light (I was shooting at mostly f7.1 to f8)
  • Hold your camera tight! - we all think we're doing this all the time, then daren't go below 1/160 for fear of blurring. I've recently been really paying attention to camera holding techniques and can now go down to maybe 1/40 without getting too much blur. To do this hold your camera with your left hand cupped under the lens but pushing to the right, then counter this by gripping with your right hand but pushing left. Finally press the eyepiece tightly in so there is some pressure on your eyebrow/forehead. This dramatically reduces camera shake (remember to tuck your elbow in as well!) It can take some practice though and feel uncomfortable but will reduce blur!

Fota Wildlife Park - Aug 19th

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These were taken at Fota Wildlife Park, Cork (Website here)
Photos taken with a cheap Tamron 70-300 (probably worth about £100-150 tops).

Please Click the title for the full post!

May Flowers

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A mixture of Freelensing with the 50mm and macro with the 70-300mm






Crows

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Some older photos taken some time ago at our old place. Just added some fill lighting and gave them a bit more consistency.



Tamron 70-300mm

Photos 25-29th March

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Click for larger view. D7000, lens' Tamron 70-300mm + Nikkor 50mm 1.8




4/3/2012 - The Moon in daylight.

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f16 - 1/320 - ISO200 d7000 300mm

If you're looking to get a good detailed picture of the moon take your picture an hour or so before dusk. It will allow you to shoot at a higher F number which will give less blur at that distance.

I use a 70-300mm tamron lens for these shots. You also have the ability to drop the saturation/blues to make it nighttime if you want.

Shooting later may require longer shutter speeds which with telephoto lens' will cause motion blurs even if you're using a tripod due to the movement of the moon.

There is a great page here with maximum shutter speeds before you get light movement when shooting planets/stars;

http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/tips/121_stars_star_trails.htm

That guide is to deliberately make star trails but just stay within those boundaries with your particular lens to make static images! :)

The above shot was taken by hand at about 6pm from my balcony. Adjustments made were; Sharpening, Saturation, Brightness/contrast tweaks and white balance.

Give it a go during daytime anyway! Enjoy!

The Moon II

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Been a while since taking a photo of the moon. Think this is an improvement over the last one. Earlier today as well I took some photos around town with the Fisheye (will upload them here tomorrow).

Tamron 70-300mm (at 300mm) f6. Click for larger view!

The Birds

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Some shots taken earlier. Put some food out to get some of the birds down on to the ledge and then a crow came down and took it all! Managed to take a few before he took over though.


Below: The Culprit

300mm tests

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These with my 70-300mm lens. Not used it in a long time but quite enjoyed taking some shots, will definitely be doing more with it now I've moved.